Danish Jewellery

Danish design is truly in a class of its own. And that goes for Danish jewellery, too, which, for generations, has evolved from apprenticeships at smithies into the iconic Danish brands. Today, Danish jewellery is highly coveted by collectors all over the world. At our Online Auction on 11 October, we’ll be presenting a string of Danish jewellery designers who have left their mark on both Danish design and cultural history throughout the ages.

 

If you dream of the best of the best, this is your opportunity to acquire your very own piece of jewellery from some of Denmark’s leading jewellers. Our specialists have put together beautiful jewels for ladies and gentlemen alike, and there are iconic pieces of craftsmanship and bona fide works of art from Mogens Ballin, Georg Jensen, Bent Knudsen and Ole Lynggaard on the display tray.

Gauguin, Bindesbøll and the Artistic Soul

With an exquisite lustre, a small gem of an Art Nouveau brooch glitters among the auction’s jewels and is estimated at DKK 4,000–6,000. Francesco Mogens Hendrik Ballin was both a painter and an artisan. Pivotal to his personal and artistic development were the visits he made to Mette Gauguin (the wife of Paul Gauguin) in Frederiksberg and the ensuing trips to France, where he became a student of Gauguin’s friend, the artist Paul Sérusier. In 1899, Ballin established a smithy – at A/S Tuborgs Fabrikker – for decorative art made of tin, where the metal was shaped into attractive bowls, mugs and jugs. Later, he also worked in silver and gold, mostly for jewellery, incorporating amber, corals and semi-precious stones. His artistic style was influenced by Thorvald Bindesbøll and German Art Nouveau. In 1907, he gave up his smithy and shop in Skoubogade in Copenhagen. Ballin’s artistic activity would go on to become of decisive importance to Georg Jensen.

Passionate and Driven Businessman

In 1904, Georg Jensen founded a silversmithy at Bredgade 36. In the early years, Georg Jensen designed almost everything himself, based on the idea that jewellery should be affordable to more people. That is why he never used gold, but rather the hard “A380 silver”. To distance himself from the use of cheap materials and mass production of the time, Jensen became known for finishing the surface of the silver. His jewellery was often adorned with exotic and unusual semi-precious stones such as amber, agate, coral, lapis lazuli and carnelian. The stones were not faceted, but cabochon-cut and matte. From 1906, he joined forces with the painter Johan Rohde, known for his drawings of sculptural plant motifs. The style was Art Nouveau, known in Denmark as “skønvirke”, the motifs of which, including flowers, leaves and berries, were inspired by nature. The passionate businessman that he was, Georg Jensen was also happy to accept unusual commissions from ordinary private customers. In addition to the antique jewellery at our Online Auction, you can also bid on jewellery designed for Georg Jensen by outstanding Danish jewellery designers such as Nanna and Jørgen Ditzel, Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe and the iconic Henning Koppel.

Georg Jensen: “Moonlight Blossom” brooch of sterling silver adorned with cabochon-cut moonstone. After 1945. Estimate: DKK 6,000–8,000
Nanna & Jørgen Ditzel: Ring of 18 ct. gold. For Georg Jensen after 1945. Estimate: DKK 4,000–6,000
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe for Georg Jensen: “Dew Drop” bracelet of sterling silver adorned with green agate. Estimate: DKK 8,000–10,000
Henning Koppel: Brooch of sterling silver in the shape of a fish. Georg Jensen after 1945. Estimate: DKK 2,000

We are known for beautiful design in Denmark. And that goes for our jewellery, too. We have a long history of pioneering, innovative jewellery design and craftmanship, drawing on a unique tradition that originates from a large catalogue of older, historical Danish jewellery designers and companies, such as Georg Jensen. Their names and companies exist to this day because, as pioneering men and women, they have been recognised both nationally and internationally. It is beautiful that the tradition lives on and that the design is reimagined and used today.”

Eva Dybkjær

Specialist in jewellery at Bruun Rasmussen

Bent Knudsen and Geometry

It is in the section for the more modern jewellery that we find Bent Knudsen’s work. He trained as a cutlery maker at C.M. Cohr, in Fredericia. In 1956, after having worked at Hans Hansen for a few years, Bent Knudsen opened his own silversmithy in Kolding together with his wife Anni. A large assortment of mainly silver jewellery in geometric shapes, many pieces with stones, was produced here, as was a considerable amount of hollowware and a great many paper cuts, which were punched out in the workshop and assembled into mobiles. Clear, simple design is characteristic of Anni and Bent Knudsen’s jewellery, often with geometrically shaped, interconnecting links. In addition to pieces commissioned for the Danish and Swedish royal houses, Bent Knudsen exported extensively to large parts of the world. Featured in the auction are two elegant bracelets, both in Knudsen’s distinctive angular, raw style.

Bent Knudsen: Agate bracelet of sterling silver adorned with numerous polished moss agates. Estimate: DKK 3,000– 4,000
Ole Lynggaard: A pair of “Elderflower” diamond studs of 14 ct. white gold, each adorned with a brilliant-cut diamond. Estimate: DKK 3,000

Motifs Inspired by Nature

In contrast, Ole Lynggaard’s more refined designs are either lavishly adorned with white diamonds or clasping large solitaire gemstones in intense colours. His fascination with the organic movements and graphic elegance of animals is clearly evident in several of his iconic pieces of animal jewellery, while floral details and foliage are a major source of inspiration for several of his collections. He is best known for his “Elephant” and “Snakes” collections. Included in the Online Auction are a number of jewellery clasps inspired by flowers, pendants and charms. Ole Lynggaard – and later also his daughter, Charlotte Lynggaard – has become synonymous with unique Danish craftsmanship and design, and the company is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year.


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Online Auction

Jewellery

11 October


For further information, please contact:

Eva Dybkjær Portrait

Eva Dybkjær

Eva Dybkjær

Specialist / Jewellery, Designer Handbags & Fashion / København