A Jewellery Legend at Auction

Flapping, whimsical diamond birds perched on gemstones, sapphire sea creatures, tourmaline seahorses, and golden camels – the imagination of French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907–1987) knew no bounds. It is this originality that made him one of the most significant jewellery artists of the 20th century, and his fantastic creations speak for themselves. His lifelike yet almost surreal interpretations of everything from the sea and sky to flora and fauna, as well as ropes, tassels, and ribbons in diamonds, colored gemstones, and clear enamels, had a broad appeal, sparking renewed interest in bold and striking jewelry in brilliant colors with unexpected combinations.

In his time, Schlumberger was the preferred jewellery artist for celebrities, with actresses such as Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, and Greta Garbo, as well as style icons like Wallis Simpson, Babe Paley, and Diana Vreeland, wearing his wild jewelry, which is now iconic. Particularly the pieces Schlumberger created during his legendary collaboration with the jewelry company Tiffany & Co., which are still in production, stand as markers of the brand’s high quality. This partnership began in 1956 and marked the start of an unprecedented era in jewelry design, the fruits of which can be seen in the Croisillon bracelet, which Schlumberger designed in 1962, and of which we are offering two examples at auction.

Jean Schlumberger's dedication to his craft is unparalleled, and that is why he quickly made a name for himself when, in his early twenties, he opened his first studio in Paris. As a designer, he truly solidified his reputation when the popular fashion designer of the time, Elsa Schiaparelli, recognized his talent in 1937 and entrusted him with leading her striking collection of buttons and costume jewelry.

Schlumberger's background in a family from the textile industry is clearly reflected in his design language. Masterfully, he effortlessly wove gold designs into geometric patterns with organic forms, giving the jewelry three-dimensional textures that almost seemed to step into the world of sculpture.

Schlumberger is credited with reviving the 19th-century art form of paillonné enamel, a time-consuming process where transparent enamel is fired over fine layers of gold leaf. This can also be seen in the Croisillon bracelet, which possesses remarkable depth.

You can view the offered jewellery at our Preview from 5 to 8 April at Nørgaardsvej 3, 2800 Kongens Lyngby. During the Preview, we will also host inspiring talks with stylist Anja Camilla Alajdi, who will share her ideas on how to style your jewellery, and Kristoffer Dahy-Ernst, editor-in-chief of Euroman, who will speak about Patek Philippe watches.